Categories
Dental Hygeine

4 Tips To Use When Your Dog Resists Home Tooth Brushing

More than half of dog owners NEVER brush their dog’s teeth! But as pet parents, we all know we should be taking regular care of our pet’s teeth. Not only can daily brushing save us money and time on clinic visits, but keeping your dog’s teeth as clean as possible helps prevent oral bacteria from traveling to the heart and kidneys and causing disease in those organs.  Do you brush your dog’s teeth? Take this 7 second survey and let us know (be honest please!) http://www.surveymonkey.com/s/GRBKHFX

But what can you do if your dog resists her regular brushings? Is there a way to make this chore easier for both of you?

The answer is YES…and we’ve given you some tips on doggy tooth brushing that can help both you and your pooch de-stress during this daily ritual.

Tip #1 – Acclimate your dog to having her mouth handled. This procedure can be used if your pet doesn’t like having her lips or mouth examined, and as training for any new dog in your house. Additionally, we highly recommend using this technique as a teaching tool for puppies.

When your dog is totally relaxed and cuddling with you, softly reach down and gently run your finger under her lips and over her gums, all around the outside of her teeth. If she initially resists, back off, let her relax a bit, and try again. Practice this exercise consistently every time you are snuggling together until she no longer backs away from your touch.

Tip #2– Even though a daily home brushing is ideal, we all know the reality is that most dog’s hate getting their teeth brushed  and there are going to be times when you’re either out of hours or out of patience. So right from the beginning start using oral rinses and water additives which can provide the dental care needed to keep your dog’s teeth in good shape.

All-natural water additives poured directly into your dog’s bowl can loosen plaque build-up and freshen her breath whenever she takes a drink. Made with fatty acid salts that inhibit the growth of bacteria and mold, and baking soda to fight bad breath and remove plaque and food particles, water additives are an easy way to help your pet’s oral hygiene.

Foams and rinses are another alternative to brushing when life gets too busy. Compounded from the same all-natural ingredients as organic water additives, this new type of oral foam deodorizes your pup’s breath while fighting plaque and bacteria, all without alcohol or harsh chemicals.

Tip #3 – Introduce the toothbrush. Once she is consistently relaxed, you can introduce her toothbrush into this training. Make sure you have either a regular doggy toothbrush small enough to fit comfortably between your pet’s lips and gums, or one of the soft brushes that fit over your finger and slide easily into the proper position.

Use the same technique you tried when introducing your dog to having her mouth examined, substitute her toothbrush for your finger. Make sure she is relaxed when you begin working with the brush, and keep practicing over time until she is totally calm and stress-free each time you put the brush against her teeth.

Tip #4 – Bring on the toothpaste. Now that your pooch is acclimated to having your fingers and her toothbrush in her mouth, you can familiarize her with her toothpaste. Most canine toothpastes are formulated with either a beef or chicken flavoring that makes the paste more palatable for your dog, and she is less likely to resist or spit it out if you choose the kind of flavor she likes. If those flavors don’t work for her, try an all-natural, vanilla-flavored toothpaste to help satisfy even the pickiest dog.

Initially, try placing just a small amount of the toothpaste on your pup’s gums or lips so that she has to lick it off and taste it. Once she realizes that she likes the taste, she is less likely to be resistant to your brushing with it.

Using the same consistently gentle technique as before, you’re now ready to really brush your pet’s teeth in earnest. Using your soft canine brush and toothpaste, let the friction of small, circular motions remove any plaque or food particles found on the outside of the teeth on both the upper and lower jaw. You don’t need to open your pup’s mouth and brush the insides of the teeth; saliva and the action of the tongue tends to dispense with anything left behind in that part of the mouth. There is also no need to rinse her mouth after brushing. Canine toothpastes are made to be swallowed, without all the harsh chemicals found in human toothpastes.

Please remember: NEVER use human toothpaste, mouthwash, or dental rinses to clean your dog’s teeth. Many of the products we use in our human mouths contain harsh chemicals and alcohol that can be toxic to your pooch.

Categories
bad breath Dental Hygeine

6 Quick and Easy Ways To Take Care Of Your Dog’s Teeth

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by Cate Burnette, RVT

Your challenge as a pet owner is how to keep your dog’s mouth and teeth clean, fresh smelling, and free of disease-causing bacteria when work or kids (or both) demand your attention, and free time is at a premium.

While neglecting your pooch’s teeth is not necessarily an option, there are ways to cut corners without spending time or money at the vet clinic until it is time for her annual check-up. We’ve given you five of those options below.

Home Brushing

In about 5 minutes of your time, brushing your dog’s teeth at home on a daily basis helps eliminate plaque, lessens tartar build-up, and keeps her breath smelling nice. Additionally, at-home cleaning reduces the amount of bacteria that can create diseases in your pup’s mouth and internal organs. You’ll need a regular doggy toothbrush small enough to fit comfortably inside her mouth, plus canine toothpaste like an all natural, vanilla-flavored toothpaste.

Water Additives

All-natural water additives can be poured directly into your dog’s bowl so that whenever she takes a drink, their various organic components can freshen her breath and loosen any food particles or plaque build-up attaching to her teeth. Those additives containing fatty acid salts can inhibit the growth of the bacteria that causes periodontal disease, while added baking soda fights bad breath and removes plaque and food particles.

Raw Bones

Raw beef bones not only serve your dog as a tasty treat full of minerals and other necessary nutrients, they also work with your pup’s chewing action to help keep her teeth clean. The friction caused by her teeth working the hard surface of the bone scrapes away any left over food particles, dental plaque, and prevents tartar build-up. Additionally, certain protein enzymes found in raw bones work to inhibit the growth of oral bacteria, thus keeping your dog’s breath smelling fresh.

We recommend asking your butcher for beef knuckle bones or checking with your local deer processing plant for venison bones when in season.Make sure the bones are too large for your pooch to fit the whole thing in her mouth to prevent her swallowing and choking on it. You’ll want to clean most of the meat away from the bones unless you feed a raw diet. You’ll also need to make sure the bones are fresh and have been refrigerated to prevent your dog picking up salmonella. Note: Even though some websites say that raw chicken bones are okay to give your dog, we don’t recommend them. Even raw, they can still splinter with sharp edges and can easily penetrate your dog’s soft esophageal, stomach, and intestinal tissues.

Hard Veggie Treats

Hard vegetables and fruits are another type of treat that can help clean your dog’s teeth. Raw carrot chunks, raw broccoli and cauliflower, uncooked bites of sweet potato, and hard green apple bits all serve to rid her mouth and teeth of plaque and tartar, as well as providing extra vitamins and other nutrients necessary to keep your pooch healthy. Try substituting raw veggies for processed cookies and meaty treats and see how your dog takes to them.  Note: Don’t give her onions, garlic, grapes, raisins, avocado, tomatoes, or citrus as these foods may upset delicate digestive systems and some are known to be toxic.

Dental Chews

Dental chews have been around for a while and work much the same as raw bones and hard vegetables in keeping doggy teeth clean and free of plaque. Ask your vet for recommendations, or go online and look for chews that have been clinically tested and proven to reduce tartar build-up. Look for those chews manufactured in sizes and shapes to fit your dog’s mouth and those containing supplemental vitamins and minerals.

Dental Wipes

Dental Wipes are textured cloths that have been pre-moistened with ingredients to help remove plaque and tarter. For many dogs with smaller mouths, this is the way to go. Also, dogs that resists brushing may be more likely to allow the owner to wipe their teeth over using a brush.

Categories
Eyes

Canine Dry Eye – Causes, Symptoms, & Treatment

by Cate Burnette. RVT

The condition known as “dry eye” – or keratoconjunctivitis sicca – causes inadequate tear production in dogs. Injuries to your dog’s tear glands through infection or trauma, nerve damage from infections or some medications, a genetic predisposition, or an autoimmune reaction to the body’s natural tears can all attribute to the disorder. Whatever the reason, your dog’s tear glands can simply cease to function at their normal levels causing her massive eye irritation, possible infection, and pain.

What are the symptoms?

Dogs with “dry eye” develop a thick, yellowish discharge. They may squint and their eyes appear red and inflamed. You may see your dog continually rubbing or wiping at her eyes. Without tears to combat normal bacteria, the overgrowth of bacteria on the eye causes infections. Additionally, inadequate lubrication allows pollen, dust, and other foreign particles to accumulate on the eye producing irritation and itching.

Without veterinary treatment, your dog can suffer from chronic, painful eye infections. Constant irritation of the cornea often results in severe scarring and corneal ulcerations that may lead to eventual blindness.

How does my vet diagnose “dry eye?”

Before making a diagnosis, your vet will probably want to measure the actual amount of tears being produced to determine how dry the eyes really are. To perform the test, called the “Schirmer Tear Test,” a small strip of treated paper is inserted just inside the lower eyelid in the outer corner of the affected eye for 60 seconds. This is not painful to your dog. At the end of the 60 seconds, the height of the moistened area on the strip is measured. A height of 15mm or more is normal. Anything less than 10mm is indicative of “dry eye,” and a height of 5mm is considered severely dry.

What is the treatment?

If your veterinarian can find a cause for the “dry eye” diagnoses, treatment will be aimed at eliminating it. Antibiotics may be prescribed to combat infections and if other medications are causing the issue, then those drugs should be stopped and others substituted. Typically, because the origin of “dry eye” remains unknown, therapy is aimed at replacing the tears through daily medications.

Veterinarians most commonly recommend cyclosporine ophthalmic ointment or drops to treat this condition. When cyclosporine is not effective for some patients, vets will suggest using another daily preparation called tacrolimus. Over-the-counter artificial tear solutions are also sometimes recommended in conjunction with both these medications.

With very severe cases of “dry eye,” a veterinary ophthalmic surgeon transplants a salivary duct into the upper eyelid area allowing your dog’s natural saliva to lubricate the eye. This procedure is rarely used, but provides another option for dog owners.

To help your affected pooch even further, you can always use convenient, pre-moistened organic eye pads to combat the discharge associated with “dry eye.” Because they are infused with colloidal silver, these anti-bacterial eye pads can help fight off infections and remove tearing residue around the eyes.

Categories
Ears Food

Stress-Free Tips on Giving Your Dog The Medicine She Needs

by Cate Burnette, RVT

Getting your dog to take her medicine can be like putting toothpaste back into the tube…it needs to be done, but can seem like an impossible task at the time. If your dog is anything like the normal, every day house pooch, you’ll have to drag her out from under the bed to medicate her.

AND, if you’re anything like the normal dog owner, making your pet the least bit uncomfortable sends you into reams of remorse and guilt that can cause you to quit the job way too easily.

There are ways to give your pet her medicine without traumatizing either one of you.

Pills

One of the most common forms of medicine you’ll get from your veterinarian comes in pill form. Whether its an antibiotic you only need to give for 10 days to 2 weeks, or a thyroid hormonal supplement that your dog requires a couple of times a day for life, getting the pills down your dog’s throat is the ultimate goal.

For dogs that don’t have weight or diabetic issues, the easiest way to give a pill is to pop it into a small chunk of soft meat or cheese. You just need to have a big enough bite of food to cover the pill. Make sure you push the pill all the way into the middle of the food so that it can’t be seen and offer it to her as a treat.

If your dog is a fan of peanut butter – or any nut butter – stick the pill into the middle of a spoon of peanut butter and let her lick it up. With her favorite treat hiding the pill, your pooch is more likely to swallow the medicine without even thinking about it.

For those animals that can smell one tiny pill in a plate full of meat, and eat around it or spit it out, you’re going to need to try another method.

You can buy a “piller” at your vet’s office, online, or at some pet supply stores. The “piller” looks like a long, plastic tube with a plunger on one end and a rubber cylinder on the other that is designed to hold different sizes of pills.

Once you place the medicine in the holding end of the piller and draw back the plunger, you’ll need to open your dog’s mouth just wide enough to get the pill all the way over her tongue to the back of her throat. When the pill is in the right spot, push down on the plunger, quickly pull out the piller making sure you’ve left the medicine behind, and gently hold her muzzle shut. Point her nose to the ceiling and rub her throat to encourage her to swallow the pill.

Using another method along those same lines, gently pry her mouth open with one hand, then, with your other hand, push the pill to the back of her throat, making sure you set it over the base of the tongue. Hold her mouth closed, gently push her nose to the ceiling, and rub her throat until you feel her swallow.

If your pup is reluctant to swallow the pill, you can try gently blowing into her nose. The air flowing backward into her lungs causes and automatic swallow reflex that will get the medicine down her throat and into her stomach.

Liquid Medicines

You’ll probably find that giving your dog liquid medicines is an easier proposition than pilling her.

Once the proper dosage of liquid is drawn up into the medicine dropper or syringe, gently slip the end of the applicator into the side of your pup’s mouth in the pouch between her cheek and gums. Point her nose to the ceiling, and slowly expel the medicine into her mouth allowing her time to take a breath between each swallow.

Keep giving her the liquid until she’s swallowed the prescribed dose.

Some all-natural, organic tonics you can squirt directly onto her food or into her water dish, so that she gets her medicine when she eats.

Ear Medications

If you pet has any kind of ear disease caused by bacteria, yeast, or even ear mites,

You’re going to have to treat her ears at home with either a medicated ointment or liquid to clear up the infection.

Your dog’s ear consists of the earflap (or pinna), and the outer, middle, and inner ear canals. For minor infections, you’re only going to be treating the pinna and the outer ear canal.

Hold your dog’s ear open and gently pull up from the base of the ear to straighten the L-shaped ear canal. Place the tip of the applicator bottle or tube into the out part of her canal and squeeze the prescribed number of drops into the ear. By stretching her ear away from her head, you allow the medication to be deposited all over the little valleys of the ear canal.

Gently massage the base of the ear to distribute the medication evenly. You’ll want to make sure and do the massage with minimal pressure because her ears might be particularly sensitive and painful from the infection. Make sure that the underside of the earflap also receives enough to the medicine to cover it.

You’ll want to use the same method when using regular liquid organic ear cleansers to help keep her ears free of the yeast and bacteria that cause infections.

Eye Meds

Giving your dog eye medications can seem particularly scary, especially if your pooch is a squirmy, little thing, so you may want to ask someone to help you hold her head while you do so.

Gently open her eyelids with the fingers of your non-dominant hand. If you’re right-handed, that would be your left hand.

Hold the open tube or bottle of medication in the other hand with the tip of the applicator approximately ½-inch above her eye orb, making sure not to touch the eye. Drip the prescribed number of drops or approximately ½-inch of gel down onto the eye and allow the eyelids to close.

Gently massage the eyelids to evenly distribute the medicine over the entire eye.

Subcutaneous (“Under the Skin”) Injections

If your pooch is diabetic or needs regular allergy injections, you’re going to need to learn how to give her a shot of medicine subcutaneously, or just under the first layer of skin.

Draw up the proper amount of medicine in your syringe and replace the cap so that you don’t stick yourself with the needle.

Place your dog in your lap or ask someone to hold her for you. Once she’s relaxed and comfortable, pull up a loose flap of skin between her shoulder blades so that it forms a “Vee.”

Remove the cap from the needle and syringe and quickly thrust the needle into the middle area of the “Vee,” making sure it doesn’t come through the other side of the skin.

Most diabetic and allergy syringes have very small, thin needles, so if you push the needle in quickly, all your dog will feel is a tiny pinch.

Pull back on the syringe’s plunger and look for any blood filling the tube. If you see blood, you have accidentally hit a small capillary and you’ll need to reposition the syringe. If you don’t see any blood, gently push down on the plunger until all the medicine is dispensed.

Giving your dog medicine takes a little time and patience, but with the proper techniques, can be accomplished fairly easily and stress-free for both of you.

Categories
Anxiety & Nervousness

Hypertension & Your Dog- What Is It? How To Treat It?

Like we humans, our canine companions can suffer from high blood pressure, or hypertension. High blood pressure refers to the abnormal elevation of the pressure exerted by blood — specifically blood in the arteries — against the walls of the blood vessels and the organs those vessels supply. Untreated hypertension can negatively affect many of your dog’s organ systems, including the kidneys, heart, eyes, and nervous system.

There are two types of hypertension found in dogs. Primary hypertension occurs without a clear, underlying cause and is quite rare in veterinary medicine. Secondary hypertension is seen more frequently, often as a consequence of another primary disease. Chronic kidney disease, hyperthyroidism, diabetes mellitus, cardiomyopathy (hardening of the walls of the heart muscle), and Cushing’s disease or hyperadrenalcorticism (excessive production of the cortisone hormone) are the main causes of high blood pressure in dogs.

What are some symptoms of hypertension in dogs?

Just as in humans, most dogs won’t show any signs of high blood pressure until it reaches the point of being a medical emergency…or your veterinarian detects it during a routine examination. Once it reaches the critical stage, your pet may show some of the following signs:

  • Circling
  • Seizures
  • Blindness, retinal detachment, eye hemorrhage, dilated pupils
  • Bleeding from the nose
  • Blood in the urine
  • Weakness in the legs on either, or both, sides of the body
  • Disorientation

Since all of these symptoms are also signs of numerous underlying diseases, you should ask your veterinarian to check your dog’s blood pressure as a matter of protocol during necessary exams.

How does my vet measure my dog’s blood pressure?

As in human medicine, an inflatable cuff will be placed on your dog’s paw or at the base of his tail closest to a discernable pulse. Standard blood pressure measuring instruments — in vet medicine, this is usually a Doppler flow meter that measures sound waves — record the differences in sound of blood moving in, and out, of the arteries.

Generally, 5 to 7 measurements are taken with the average reading shown as your pet’s blood pressure. Standard norms for canine blood pressure range from 150/95 to 159/95, with anything above those figures requiring veterinary treatment. Your dog will need to remain calm and quiet during this part of the exam in order not to skew the results of the testing.

What treatments are available?

The first step toward managing hypertension in most dogs is to treat the underlying illness. That may mean adjusting your dog’s diet to reduce sodium intake for both kidney disease and cardiac problems, medicating with diuretics to get rid of unwanted fluids, and going on anti-seizure medications if that has been an issue. Depending on the disease causing the high blood pressure, your vet will probably suggest helping your dog lose weight by exercising more frequently and going on a calorie-restricted diet.

Special medications for reducing the effects of hypertension may also be recommended. These may include beta-blockers such as propanolol or atenolol to reduce the heart rate, calcium channel blockers (diltiazem and captopril) to reduce the force of heart muscle contractions, ACE-inhibitors (enalapril, benazepril) to reduce blood volume, and vasodilators (amlodipine) to increase the diameter of blood vessels.

If your hypertensive dog is one that stresses easily or needs to remain calm, there are several ways you can take care of this problem at home. For example:

  • Crate your dog or place him in a dark, quiet room in your home when you know you’re having company or someone is coming over that will excite him.
  • Try obedience training using positive reinforcement to keep him from barking and jumping at the doorbell or the mailman.
  • Nervous, overactive, and anxious dogs can benefit from an herbal-based liquid remedy full of natural ingredients known to be safe and effective in helping calm your dog. Flower essences, such as aspen, cerato, and wild oat help to reduce general anxiety and fear, sharpen your pet’s ability to focus, alleviate depression, and stop nervous habits such as chewing and destructive behaviors. Herbal extracts, including vervain, passion flower, and valerian reduce restlessness and nervousness, and aid in physical relaxation.

Your dog with hypertension can live a long, happy, and productive life if you pay attention to his medication, food, and exercise, make sure he gets regular veterinary check-ups, and he stays calm and anxiety-free.

Categories
Ears

Fly Strike in Dogs: The Painful Condition You May Never Have Heard Of

Fly strike, also called myiasis, is an irritation of your dog’s ear caused by biting flies. A warm weather disease that primarily affects dogs confined to the outdoors in the summer and fall, fly strike is most often caused by the common stable fly, however, blackflies, deer flies, and houseflies can also bite.

These insects bite and feed from the blood on the dog’s ears causing painful, red and bleeding sores along the edges of the ears. In erect-eared dogs, the flies typically bite at the tips of the ears. In floppy-eared dogs, the front edge of the ear is a popular site for fly bites. In some severe cases, the face can also be involved, and the bite wounds attract flies that lay their eggs in the damaged tissue. These eggs will later hatch into maggots.

What does fly strike look like?

Fly strike, with its red, crusty, bleeding lesions on the tips of a dog’s ears can look just like mange, scratching from allergies, vasculitis – swollen, inflamed blood vessels – or erythematosis, an autoimmune disorder where the animal’s immune system attacks normal, healthy tissue.

How is fly strike diagnosed?

Ear wounds can sometimes be difficult to diagnose without various specific tests. In order to differentiate between fly strike and these other diseases, an ear exam, skin scraping, bacterial or fungal culture, or a skin biopsy may be required. Your veterinarian may also want a complete blood count, chemistry profile, and urinalysis to make sure the rest of your pet’s body is healthy.

What kind of veterinary treatment is available?

Treatment involves physical removal of the maggots if any are present, wound flushing and cleansing with an antibiotic liquid medication, removal of any remaining dead tissue from your dog’s ears, and clipping hair from the area to aid in drying of the affected areas. Most vets will recommend giving your dog a systemic antibiotic to speed healing. Because this condition can be particularly painful, many veterinarians will opt to either anesthetize or sedate your dog during the initial treatment process.

How can I help my dog at home?

Whether you live in the city or country, do not underestimate the pain that these flies can inflict and be sure to initiate treatment at the first sign of fly bites on your pet. Gently cleanse the ear with warm water and a mild antiseptic soap, or an all-natural, organic ear cleanser containing peppermint and tea tree oil. Peppermint has a high menthol content and has long been used for its anesthetic and anti-inflammatory properties. Some holistic veterinarians suggest tea tree oil is for its antiviral, antibacterial, antifungal, and antiseptic qualities.

Then, apply a topical antibiotic ointment that will help to control any infection that may be present. If the fly bites are severe, or maggots are present, veterinary attention is needed.

If your dog lives mainly outside (which we DO NOT recommend), you’ll need to spray your dog’s outside living quarters to help keep fly numbers to a minimum. Remove any materials that may attract flies, including fecal material, uneaten pet food, and garbage from the area.

Whether your dog stays mainly inside or outside your home, keep your pet clean and well-groomed, using an all-natural insect repellant spray to keep flies and other pests away from exposed ears and other delicate areas of the body.

The most important treatment for this problem is prevention, which consists of keeping your dog inside as much as possible during the heat of the day, except when exercising or eliminating.

Categories
Arthritis & Hip Dysplasia

My Dog Skips When She Runs! Patellar Luxation – Causes and Treatment

by Cate Burnette, RVT

Your dog’s knee joint is the largest joint in her body and carries most of her body weight. The kneecap, or “patella,” rests in a groove at the bottom of the femur (the large, upper leg bone), and tendons and ligaments hold the patella, the femur, and the tibia (the lower shinbone) in place. Like the human knee, canine knee joints are meant to bend in only one direction, and when any parts of the knee become dysfunctional, your dog may begin limping and showing signs of discomfort or pain.

Patellar luxation — a dislocation of the kneecap from the groove where it normally resides — is the most common form of knee joint injury in dogs. Typically found in small dogs, toy and miniature breeds, a luxated patella may or may not entail an injury to the attendant tendons or ligaments. The simpler form of dislocation may involve stretched, or pulled, cartilage, while the more serious injuries are often the result of torn or severed tendons or ligaments.

What are the signs and symptoms of a luxated patella?

Particularly in the smaller breeds, you’ll notice your pooch hesitate while running, then continue forward with a skipping movement showing in the affected leg. She may be reluctant to go up and down stairs, or may hold the injured leg off the ground for several steps at a time (this may look like she is ready to shake your hand). You may also be able to actually see the displacement of the kneecap to the inside or outside of the joint.

Commonly, these symptoms come and go as the patella automatically jumps in and out of its placement, however, as your dog ages, the luxations will probably become more and more frequent and longer lasting. Depending on the severity of the injury, dogs can experience anything from a minor discomfort to a very painful episode.

What can I do to help my dog with this problem?

If you notice your little pooch experiencing any signs of lameness, an examination by your veterinarian needs to be your first step. Joint exams typically include a series of x-rays and flexation tests on the affected knee. Your vet may also palpate the joint and patella to physically feel if the kneecap is displaced. In cases of severe trauma, your veterinarian may recommend an MRI of the knee joint to help with diagnosis and treatment.

A patellar luxation in a young dog is typically caused by physical or breed predisposition, or a congenital deformity. While all dogs can suffer from this issue, toy and miniature dogs such as Dachsunds, Maltese, Toy and Miniature Poodles, Bichon Frieses, and Yorkies are the breeds most commonly affected.

Veterinarians commonly recommend that dogs with this joint problem get plenty of exercise and keep their weight down with a high-fiber, low-carb diet to ease the strain on the knee. Your vet may also suggest that a glucosamine/chondroitin supplement be added to your dog’s food to enhance joint function.

If you choose to add a more natural, organic supplement, you may want to choose one that uses Collagen Type II and Hyaluronic Acid, as well as chondroitin, to build new cartilage and reduce further damage to the joints. Additionally, solutions containing boswellia, devils claw and licorice all reduce the inflammation and pain that goes along with a displaced patella.

“My 1 year old Maltese was diagnosed with a luxating patella. He prescribed a collagen supplement which we used faithfully everyday,” said Jason Ladd, owner of RiQui. “I was skeptical at first, but literally after one month on the supplement RiQui demonstrated no further symptoms of the luxating patella. Now she is 9 years old and still is symptom free!”

Unfortunately, many dogs do not show signs of pain until the disease becomes fairly well advanced. Patellar luxation in a younger dog usually results in some form of degenerative bone disease as the dog ages. If this is the case with your little pooch, your veterinarian may recommend surgical stabilization of the knee, with supportive pain and anti-inflammatory medication, and limited movement for a number of weeks.

Categories
Skin Disease

Does your dog need a psychologist? What about a dermatologist, nutritionist or ophthalmologist? If so, you’re in luck!

Veterinary Specialists

When Your Pet Needs More Than Your Local Vet

While human patients have been helped with doctors specializing in certain aspects of medical care for generations, our pets are now able to get the same kind of specialized care in the form of veterinarians dealing in different aspects of animal health and care. Many of these vet specialists have moved out of the veterinary schools where they formerly taught and have opened practices for the general public, making themselves available to pet owners for focused medical care of our companion animals.

Recognized as veterinary specialists by the AVMA and their various Veterinary Specialty Boards, doctors who treat particular animal illnesses or use specific treatment or diagnostic techniques must not only be a licensed veterinarian, but they must have obtained additional education and certification in their fields.

Listed below are some veterinary specialists you may not have heard about, but find you might want to consult should your pet ever need these particular forms of therapy.

Alternative Medicine

Alternative medicine, also called holistic medicine, is a type of veterinary specialty that uses alternative methods to treat your pets’ illnesses. A relatively new branch of organized veterinary medicine, holistic veterinarians use therapies including acupuncture, chiropractic care, aromatherapy, homeopathy, herbal medicine, and ethnomedicine (a discipline taking therapies from ancient Chinese, Tibetan, Native American, and East Indian cultures) to facilitate animal health. If you’re a pet parent willing to try new methods and techniques on your furry companions, this type of vet is the one for you.

Animal Behavior/Welfare

Animal behaviorists and animal welfare veterinarians deal with the physical and psychological make-ups of their animal clients, determining how previous treatment and training relates to ongoing behavioral issues. Some of these behavior problems may include food aggression, separation anxiety, excessive barking, and domination problems. Behaviorists treat each pet individually offering both training and medicinal solutions to behavior difficulties. Additionally, vets involved in animal welfare look at an individual animal’s longevity, immunosuppression, physiology, and reproduction to verify ethical treatment of the animal and its rights as a sentient being.

Dermatology

Veterinary dermatologists are mainly concerned with your pet’s skin conditions. Bacterial and fungal skin infections, allergies, incessant scratching and itching – these are all conditions that call for the intervention of a veterinary dermatologist if your regular vet cannot find a solution for your pet. Dermatologists often use specific forms of patch and needle testing to determine which allergens are most affecting your dog, and then formulate specific injections to boost your animal’s immune system and alleviate any allergic symptoms. Additionally, veterinary dermatologists specialize in diagnosing and treating skin cancers including melanomas, squamous cell and basal cell carcinomas.

Diagnostic Imaging

Most veterinarians take diagnostic radiographs (x-rays), but the technology used in human medicine has made its way to animal medicine and pet parents are taking advantage of these inroads into veterinary science by consulting doctors skilled in diagnostic imaging. Some of these fairly new practices involve using ultrasonography, nuclear medicine, CT scans, Medical Resonance Imaging, endoscopies, and thermal imaging to diagnose animal disease and provide a treatment plan.

Oncology

Veterinary oncologists, like their human medicine counterparts, deal with animals suffering from cancer. They are specially trained to both diagnose and institute specific treatments for individual patients, and to help pet parents determine when, and if, humane euthanasia is necessary. Because our dogs and cats suffer from many of the same types of cancers as humans, veterinary oncologists are often called upon from the traditional human medical community to provide statistics and to design clinical trials that benefit both

Theriogenology

Theriogenology is the veterinary specialty concerned with animal reproduction, including the clinical practices of obstetrics and gynecology in females, urology in males, and the physiology and pathology of the reproductive systems of both sexes. Many of these veterinarians work in the breeding industry, including the spheres of food animal breeding, equine and canine breeding, and the breeding and restoration of endangered species and zoo animals.

Ophthalmology

If your dog has keratoconjunctivitis sicca, also called “dry eye,” or tear stains, your may be referred to a veterinary ophthalmologist for a complete diagnosis and proper treatment. This veterinary specialist deals with the anatomy, physiology, and diseases of your animal’s eyes. Concerned with both medical and surgical eye problems, veterinary ophthalmologists are often affiliated with veterinary medical schools or large specialty practices in major cities.

Nutrition

Animal nutritionists are doctors who specialize in determining the dietary needs of companion animals, zoo animals, and agricultural animals. Combining the sciences of chemistry, physiology, mathematics, animal behavior, food processing, and economics, a veterinary nutritionist can help you keep your animals fit and active by providing meal plans and organic, healthy treats to ensure longevity and overall physical and mental well-being to furry family members.

While these are just a few of the veterinary specialists that the pet parents may need to consult during the lifetime of their pets, the website of the American Veterinary Medical Association contains a list of veterinary specialties recognized by the American Board of Veterinary Specialties, plus a brief description of what each type of veterinarian does on a daily basis.

Not sure if your dog needs a veterinary specialist? Ask our vet, it’s free!

Categories
Mattes & Tangles

Working Through A Mat vs. Shaving

What Can I Do About My Dog’s Matted Coat?
Regular grooming with a brush or comb helps keep your dog’s coat in good condition by removing dander and dirt, spreading natural body oils throughout the hair coat, keeping the skin clean, and preventing tangles and mats.

Dogs with smooth, short coats (like that of a Boxer, Boston Terrier, or Basset Hound) typically only need brushing once a week. Dogs with short, dense fur prone to matting, like Retrievers and Labradors, need weekly brushing with a slicker brush (a brush with soft pads and angled flexible pins) to remove tangles and a bristle brush to catch dead hair. Long-haired pooches (Yorkies, Collies, Afghan Hounds, etc.) require daily attention with both a slicker brush and a bristle brush to keep hair coats clean, smooth, and mat free.

Besides the overall look of your dog, there are a number of health reasons why you should regularly brush your dog’s coat so that mats don’t occur.

  • Matted hair can trap fleas, bugs, bacteria, moisture, and foreign matter against your dog’s skin. Skin sores can develop underneath the mats, become infected, and, in some neglected cases, affect skin and muscle tissue to the point where it sloughs away completely.
  • When hair is very matted, groomers have to use a very low blade to get under the hair close to the skin to remove it. This puts a fast-moving, sharp, hot piece of metal (the blade) right against your dog’s skin. If your dog moves or jumps unexpectedly, she can get nicked or receive a serious skin cut. Additionally, close shaving also leaves your dog open for razor burns or skin irritation.
  • When your dog’s ears become heavily matted, the sensitive skin on the ear tips can become constricted and the delicate blood vessels inside the skin can rupture, causing blood to pool inside the tips of the ears. These “hematomas” can be quite painful, and, when your pooch shakes her head, can bust open sending blood flying around the room. Hematomas require veterinary care to heal properly and not become infected.

How can I get rid of mats if I choose not to shave my dog?
You’ll need to thoroughly spray the mat with an all-natural detangling spraymaking sure to work the spray all the way through the hair to your dog’s skin. Using a comb, work from the outside of the mat (where the hair isn’t tangled) and slowly and gently untangle the hair in small strands. Hold the base of the mat closest to your dog’s body in two fingers as you work to avoid pulling the skin.

If a comb doesn’t work, use a tool called a “mat rake” to work through the tangled hair. The rake functions much the same way as a comb, but comes equipped with wide-spaced, sharp teeth that can cut through the mat. Note: Please hold your fingers around the base of the mat as you did when using a comb to avoid pulling your dog’s skin and possibly cutting her with the rake.

Your next mechanical option with a difficult mat is called a “mat splitter.” Splitters can be razor sharp, so you’ll need to be very careful not to cut yourself or your dog. Start by using your detangling spray, then very carefully splitting the mat of hair into vertical or horizontal strips. You can then work either your comb or rake through the smaller pieces of mat, again making sure to never pull your dog’s skin.

If you have a very furry dog, you may want to simply cut out that specific mat. On many breeds the missing patch of hair may not even be noticed. Note: BE VERY CAREFUL WHEN using scissors on a mat or a knot, because you can seriously injure your dog. A mat tends to pull the skin beneath it, and, if you cut that skin with scissors you can unintentionally create a wound that is bigger than the mat and that will need veterinary care.

Shaving your dog should be your last option.
Consider clipping your pooch only as a final option if the other techniques of removing a mat don’t work. Shaving a mat can leave a bare patch that takes quite a while to grow out.

Conversely, if your dog is matted all over her body, you may want to consider letting a professional groomer or your veterinarian shave her (this is the more compassionate choice, getting out all of those mats would be too painful). Both are fully equipped and knowledgeable in dealing with severely matted animals.

THE FINAL WORD
Don’t let your dog get matted in the first place. If you start to see mats use some of the techniques listed above. If it’s too late and the dog is completely matted, have the groomer shave the dog (Normally they can leave at least a little hair so the dog is not completely bald).

Good Luck!

Categories
Ears

Help! My Dog Loves To Swim…But Ear Infections Are a Problem.

The canine ear canal, with its horizontal and vertical layout, predisposes certain dogs to ear infections because the debris accumulated in earwax and skin oil must work its way upward, instead of straight out. This debris feeds the fungi and bacteria that normally live in the ear canal and breeds painful, itchy ear infections.

For dogs that love to get in the water to play and swim, the extra moisture in the ear can mean chronic ear infections that, if left untreated, result in deafness, balance issues, and constant pain.

So what can a responsible pet parent do when your dogs can’t seem to stay out of the water and you don’t want to curtail their fun? Learning what causes the infection, getting a proper veterinary diagnoses and treatment, then preventing any further disease with regular ear cleaning at home helps keep your pooch healthy and safe, while still allowing for the summer time activities you both love.

What causes my dog’s ear infections?

There can be any number of reasons your dog has an ear infection ranging from an abundance of yeast, an invasion of bacteria, mites, trauma, allergies, or hereditary issues. For dogs that love the water, the warm, moist layout of the canine ear canal can be a ripe environment for all types of infections. Dogs with heavy, floppy ears, like the Beagle and the Cocker Spaniel, are prone to infections due to excess moisture build-up. Additionally, Cockers, Poodles, and the Maltese – just about any breed with an excess of hair in the canal – tend to be primed for ear infections unless the hair is regularly plucked during grooming.

What symptoms should I watch for?

It’s fairly easy to tell if your dog has developed an ear infection. If you notice any of the following signs, veterinary treatment is recommended to alleviate the problem.

· Scratching or rubbing of the ears

· Excessive head shaking

· Red, inflamed ears

· Black or yellowish discharge

· Offensive ear odor

· Constant head tilting

· Pain upon handling of the ears

· Behavioral changes, such as depression or irritability

What kind of treatment is available?

Veterinary treatment typically relies on antibacterial or antifungal eardrops depending on the diagnosed cause of your dog’s ear infection and may require several treatments daily. Your veterinarian may also prescribe systemic antibiotics or corticosteroids to deal with any lingering skin infections and inflammation. These drugs often take several weeks to become effective and, over time, can lose their efficacy if your dog’s ear infections are chronic.

Is there a way to prevent ear infections?

The best way to prevent your pooch from cultivating an infection is by starting a regular, at-home ear-cleaning regimen. You can purchase ear cleaning solutions from your veterinarian, but those products typically contain an assortment of chemicals that become less effective over time, and they can be cost prohibitive when used regularly.

An all-natural, organic formula with antibacterial and antimicrobial properties may be just the answer to your problem. A few drops in each ear per week can break down any waxy buildup that can become a breeding ground for infection. Additionally, if you look for a solution containing essential oils and organics such as comfrey, calendula, and arnica, you’ll ease any itching and discomfort caused by inflammation and repel any water that gets into the ear while swimming or bathing.

For the dog that loves to swim (or the dog that is frequently bathed), look for an ear cleanser with gentle, drying properties. A formula consisting of essential oils and aloe softens ear wax and sanitizes ear tissue, while the touch of alcohol helps dry any moisture left in the ear after playing in the water or bathing. The inclusion of lavender, eucalyptus oil, and tea tree oil in the solution relieves any swelling or redness, and promotes the healing of any infected skin tissue. What always works for my dogs is using Ear Clear before a bath or swim. It’s a viscous serum that actually repels water.  After swimming (or a bath) try putting in Ear Cleanser which will help to dispel any water that may have found its way into your dogs ears.