Categories
Activities & Fun

Why Does My Dog Do That?

ecowelldog– natural leaders in problem solving grooming and wellness

Did you ever wonder about some of the habits your dog might have that seem just a bit strange to you? Your modern dog’s odd behaviors are often holdover instincts from necessary activities performed by her wild ancestors. For example:

Butt sniffing is the canine way of saying, “Hi there, friend, how are you?” Because dogs have always had such an all-encompassing sense of smell, they use that sense much like humans use sight – as a way to check out what is going on around them and to recognize situations that might be uncomfortable or dangerous. When your dog meets another dog – whether known or unknown – she sniffs the new dog as a way of grounding herself and feeling more secure.

When your dog circles and circles before lying down, she’s reverting to her ancestral habit of “nesting.” Wild dogs circle around and around to tamp down grass or snow – depending on the season – when they decide its time to make a bed and rest. By lying hidden in tall grass or snowdrifts, the wild dog protects itself from predators that may come calling while it sleeps.

We’ve all watched as our modern, domesticated pups try to bury their food in the kitchen tile or under their bedding. This habit goes back to the practices of the wild pack that would hide or bury any uneaten food in dens or underground to preserve it for later. The preservation of the pack depended on their ability to save and store extra food for the times when hunting became more difficult.

Many animal behaviorists believe that the modern dog’s predisposition to rolling in animal dung dates back to the habits of its wild ancestors. Commonly, the hunter wolves would roll in the droppings of their prey so that the animals they hunted for food would smell themselves, and not the predator hunting them for food.

Many modern dogs will howl in response to high-pitched sounds, but did you know that this behavior dates back to the days of the wolf pack and was used as a means of long-distance communication? Howling in the wild is a means of locating other members of the pack, particularly in bad weather or if the pack is in unfamiliar territory. Often, wild wolves with greet each other with a “good morning” howl when they first wake up. Each wild dog or wolf has its own distinctive howl so that pack members can easily recognize a stranger.

What does your dog get out of licking you? Most dogs learn to lick from their mothers. Female dogs that give birth will lick their puppies to stimulate breathing, to clean them up, and to quicken the release of urine and feces after nursing. It is essential to survival of the puppies. Licking is also a gesture that submissive dogs use in the wild to demonstrate subservience to more dominant pack mates. When your dog licks you, she’s showing that you are her pack leader. Another reason dogs lick humans is to gather information about them using the scent receptors in the mouth and nose to determine if this person is friend or foe.

Knowing why your dog behaves in these instinctive patterns brings you a step closer to understanding how she thinks and how she communicates with you and the world around her.

Categories
Odor/Smell

Why Does My Dog Roll In Stinky Stuff?

Why Does My Dog Roll In Stinky Stuff?

And What Can I Do About It?

It’s the nature of dogs that no matter how hard we try to keep them clean and fresh smelling, they will inevitably find the stinkiest, most disgusting pile of matter to roll in, often just after they’ve been bathed. Whether the stuff is a dead fish, a pile of kitty poop, or the rotting garbage needing to go to the bin outside, it’s all fair game for your canine companion if you’re not extra careful.

The several theories of why dogs roll and what they get out of it can be traced back to their wild canine ancestors.

Theory #1

One of the earliest theories put forth by animal behaviorists was that dogs roll in rotting, smelly “stuff” as a means of fighting ectoparasites (flies, fleas, ticks, mites) that would otherwise be attracted to their natural body odors. That particular theory was disproved when it was noted that many insects, including mosquitoes and flies, are attracted to such smells because it usually means that rotting organic material is close by.

Theory #2

A second, somewhat more plausible theory says that wild canines would roll in decomposing meat, animal dung, and other organic material to let their pack members know that there was food to be found in a nearby location. Since your domestic dog’s wild ancestors were not only hunters but also scavengers, it would make sense that much of what they rolled in would still be edible.

Zoologists note, however, that if that were the reasoning behind the stinky roll, you would expect the pack members to immediately start backtracking to the site where the original smell came from, and that simply doesn’t typically happen.

Theory #3

A third theory suggests that the dog is not trying to pick up smells from whatever it rolls in, but is instead trying to overlay that smell with their own scent as a means of marking its territory. Just as cats will rub up against furniture or people as a way to mark them with their odor, animal behaviorists say dogs do the same thing with their people, their toys, and their bedding.

Theory #4

Finally, some biologists believe that this stinky behavior is actually an attempt to disguise the wild dog’s own odor. The deer or antelope being stalked for that night’s dinner could easily recognized the scent of the wild dog on the wind and run for safety. To forestall this slip-up, wild dogs learned to roll in the dung of their prospective prey. Once the canine was covered in the prey animal’s dung, the hunted was much less likely to spot the hunter and the chances of making a kill were heightened.

What to do? What to do?

Once your dog has done the deed and you now absolutely must bathe him, you can try bathing with all-natural, organic shampoo and conditioner combo that saves you time and bother. By delivering vitamins and conditioners directly to your dog’s skin, his coat is left noticeably softer and shinier and the shampoo’s refreshing scent lasts for days.

If the smell is just more than you can handle, you can try an odor-neutralizing spray and shampoo, a two-step process that works on smells as bad as skunk spray. The thiol compounds in the spray chemically alter the molecules of whatever matter is causing the horrendous odor, making them much less potent. The essential oils and organic compounds in the shampoo can wash the stinky matter – and its smell – down the drain, leaving your dog clean and fresh and ready for a snuggle.

That is, until the next time.

Categories
Skin Disease

Alopecia in Dogs – Causes and Treatments

by Cate Burnette DVM

Any number of conditions, including allergies, fleas, and other, more serious, systemic disorders, can cause alopecia – or hair loss – in dogs. When a dog loses its hair, the animal becomes more susceptible to the elements, to both heat and cold, and to the accidental skin damage associated with scrapes and scratches. While a quick diagnosis of the underlying condition responsible for the hair loss may be difficult to make, finding the reason your pooch is losing hair, and commencing treatment, can be extremely important to your dog’s overall health and well-being.

What can alopecia look like?

Veterinarians classify alopecia as being either symmetrical or varied hair loss.

Symmetrical alopecia is seen as regions of total or partial hair loss that are evenly distributed over the dog’s body. Frequently located on the lower back, chest, abdomen, top and inside of the hind limbs, the outside of the forelimbs, and the flanks, this type of alopecia usually shows no underlying skin lesions, although some parts may be scaly or show signs of inflammation.

Varied alopecia is random, often patchy areas of hair loss not associated with any particular pattern or area of the dog’s body, and may affect the animal’s entire body surface. Dermatitis and lesions of various depths and sizes often accompany this kind of alopecia.

What causes alopecia?

One of the most common origins of hair loss in dogs is mange, a disease triggered by either the demodex or sarcoptes mange mite. These microscopic parasites burrow under your dog’s skin, feasting on hair follicles and dead skin cells, causing intense itching, skin inflammation and infections, and loss of hair. A dog with untreated mange of either kind can lose all the hair on its body and suffer from thickened, cracked, and oozing skin.

Other causes of alopecia include low thyroid levels seen in hypothyroidism, a fungal disease like ringworm, an allergic reaction to a recent vaccination or fleabites, diabetes, and various endocrine diseases affecting both estrogen and testosterone levels, including Cushing’s disease.

What is the veterinary treatment?

Medical treatment usually consists of bathing your dog in prescribed, topical shampoos and administering systemic antibiotics to take care of any skin infections. Additionally, veterinarians attempt to determine the underlying cause of the alopecia through skin scrapings and blood tests so that they can treat that disease as well with hormonal or anti-fungal therapy.

Natural treatments

To naturally treat alopecia in your dog, begin by supplementing her diet with foods rich in Vitamins A, E, C, and B3.

Vitamins A, E, and C all work to repair damaged skin cells, reduce inflammation and itching, and moisturize dry, flaky skin. Spinach, broccoli, carrots, and baked sweet potatoes can be added to your dog’s menu to provide these extra nutrients.

Vitamin B3, also call niacin, helps with growth of new hair cells as well as metabolizing the protein necessary for keratin production in the hair shaft. High levels of niacin can be found tuna, brown rice, and the white meat of chicken.

Additionally, you can protect new hair growth by bathing your pet in an all-natural shampoo made with the amino acids necessary to nourish dull and damaged hair. Follow that with an organic ultra-rich conditioner containing colloidal oatmeal to leave damaged coats shiny and silky.

Restoring hair growth to your balding dog is not just a cosmetic issue. By finding out the root cause of your pet’s alopecia, you can treat the diseases that may have harmful effects on other organ systems of your dog.

Categories
Odor/Smell Skunk Odor Removal

How to Avoid Skunks & What To Do If You Run Into One

Help! There’s a Skunk in My Path!

by Cate Burnette, RVT

Skunks reside in all 50 of the United States, both in rural and suburban areas. If you spend any time at all out with your dogs walking on wooded trails, in open pasture land, or along rock outcroppings or brushy fencerows, you’re liable to run into one of these mild-tempered little creatures.

To avoid getting sprayed, we’ve given you some tips on how to stay away from skunks and what to do if you encounter one on your outings:

Don’t walk your dog after dark. Skunks are nocturnal. They typically begin foraging for food after dark and are back in their dens by daylight.

Stay off country roads, if at all possible, and walk your dogs in well-lighted areas. Skunks commonly patrol these streets looking for roadkill, particularly after dark, so keep to well-trafficked stretches of road.

Look for den entrances and stay away from them. Skunk dens are typically located under wood and rock piles, buildings, porches, concrete slabs, also in culverts, rock crevices, and in standing and fallen hollow trees. Look for a grass-free, smooth 3- by 4-inch depression with only one entrance and a musky odor. You can also spot a den by the evidence of skunk droppings, which look like cat spoor yet contain all kinds of food, from insects to seeds or hair, and by skunk tracks. Skunk tracks resemble those of the domestic cat, except that skunks have 5 toes instead of 4 and they show claw marks. The tracks are also usually staggered, instead of one top of each other, like cat tracks.

Don’t allow your dog or yourself to corner or agitate a skunk. These little animals won’t spray unless they feel threatened, so maintaining your distance is imperative to keep from getting attacked.

Watch for spraying signals. A startled skunk shows she is ready to spray by raising her tail, standing on her hind legs, and pounding her front legs on the ground. Should you see any of these behaviors, back slowly and quietly away.

Avoid making loud noises, moving quickly, or taking other steps that could be interpreted by the skunk as a threat.

Slowly move away from an approaching skunk if you’re standing still. Because they have such poor eyesight, skunks will approach people and other animals that are standing quietly. If you see one approaching, calmly turn around and walk in the other direction.

What should you do if your dog is skunk sprayed?

If your dog gets skunk sprayed, immediately change into old clothes and rubber gloves to avoid getting any of it on yourself. Blot the spray with paper towels to get as much off your dog’s coat as possible, then bathe and rinse the affected areas several times with a good anti-odor canine shampoo, before you bathe the whole dog to avoid spreading the smell around. There are new anti-skunk sprays and shampoos available that work organically to break apart the odor-causing compounds in the skunk spray and wash the smell down your drain.

Unfortunately, your best bet is still to avoid the situation altogether by avoiding the little culprit causing the problem.

Categories
Itchy Skin & Allergies Skin Disease

Hypothyroidism in Dogs and Its Affect on Skin

by Cate Burnette, RVT

A disease associated with middle-aged, female dogs, hypothyroidism results from a lack of production of the hormones thyroxine and triiodothyronine (T3) by the thyroid gland in the animal’s neck. These hormones regulate how the body makes proteins, uses energy, and how sensitive it is to other hormones. The disorder is usually caused either by inflammation or shrinkage of the thyroid gland.

While this endocrine disorder can be found in all dogs, the breeds most commonly affected include the Dachshund, the cocker spaniel, the golden retriever, Irish setter, Shetland sheepdog, and others.

Symptoms

Animals with hypothyroidism typically show considerable weight gain over time and may appear lethargic or unwilling to move. Other signs include dull hair coat, loss or thinning of hair, excessive shedding, and an inability to tolerate the cold. Some will have a thickening of the skin and increased skin pigment in areas of friction. Hypothyroid dogs have frequent ear and skin infections, resulting in severe itching and sores on the body from scratching. Other signs of hypothyroidism include a slow heart rate, an absence of heat cycles, and other non-specific symptoms that could be due to other diseases.

Left untreated, hypothyroid dogs can develop chronic constipation, anemia, corneal ulcers and other optical complications. High cholesterol levels, stroke, and heart disease can also be associated with hypothyroidism.

Prevention and Veterinary Treatment

While there is no known way to prevent the disease, animals with hypothyroidism benefit from life-long supplementation of the thyroid hormone in pill form and regular veterinary check-ups.

Natural Treatments

One of the best ways to combat the itchy, flaky skin and dull hair coat associated with hypothyroidism is to feed your dog extra vitamins in her normal meal by supplementing with foods high in the nutrients she needs.

Broccoli, baked sweet potatoes, carrots, fresh herbs, and green, leafy vegetables such as spinach or kale are high in the Vitamins C, A, and E that your dog needs to reduce itching and flaking, dry skin, and promote skin healing of scratches and sores. Niacin – also called Vitamin B3 – can be found in white chicken meat, wheat bran, anchovies and tuna, and calf or chicken liver. This nutrient has been found to promote new hair growth while strengthening the hair shafts of the coat already in place.

Bathing your dog in all-natural, FDA-approved organic shampoo containing colloidal oatmeal (oat solids in suspension) can relieve the inflammation and incessant scratching connected to this hormonal disorder. An organic, targeted anti-itch spray can direct its healing power of neem, oat extract, litchi, and aloe directly to your pup’s problem areas to bring immediate itch relief and promote healing.

Because veterinary treatment with synthetic hormones can take up to 6 weeks to work, its in your pup’s best interest to relieve some of her skin problems naturally while the medication takes effect.

Categories
Odor/Smell Skunk Odor Removal

Help! My Dog Got Skunked!

Some Solutions to a Nasty Problem

by Cate Burnette

Depending on where you live, your pooch is liable to run into a variety of wild animals on trail walks and his off-leash forays into wooded areas. Squirrel, chipmunks, rabbits, and badgers will have little to no effect on your dog, but what happens when he meets up with a skunk? Your curious pet is quite likely to get sprayed if he insists on checking out this strange, black-and-white little creature.

Before a skunk sprays, she’ll give off warning signals: she’ll raise her tail, stand up on her hind legs, and stomp her front feet. That would be the time to get your dog quickly away from the situation. A skunk’s spray, termed “mercapton,” contains compounds called “thiols” that are not water-soluble, meaning they’re extremely hard to get out of your dog’s fur – and your clothes – with a simple shampoo bath. A fresh spray will burn your nose and, if it hits your dog’s eyes, can blind him for up to 2 days.  If you don’t get rid of the spray immediately, the smell – and its remnants – can last for up to 2 years.

Tips BEFORE You Bathe

  • Change into old clothes that you’re willing to throw away. Skunk spray is actually an oil that is as hard to get out of fabric, as it is dog fur. Don’t allow your dog to lie on his bedding for the same reason.

  • Make sure to wear disposable rubber gloves when handling or washing your dog. You don’t want the smell on your hands or skin.

  • If possible, leave your dog outside, and bathe him outside, to keep the odor out of your home
  • Try blotting some of the skunk spray with paper towels before you begin washing. Don’t rub the oil down further into the hair coat and try not to spread it further on your dog’s fur. If you use a regular bathing towel, you’ll want to use one you can later toss in the trash.
  • Determine where the spray hit your dog. You may be able to trim away some of the contaminated fur or comb it out.

Bathing Your Stinky Dog

Bathe and rinse the sprayed parts of your dog 2 or 3 times just to get out the oily skunk spray before you bathe the rest of the dog. That will help to keep the spray from spreading to uncontaminated parts of the fur.

There are some new, all-natural, anti-skunk sprays and shampoos out on the market that use essential oil-based odor counteractants in a two-step process. First, an organic spray chemically alters the odorous components of the skunk mercapton. Then, an odor neutralizing shampoo containing essential oils and organic compounds works to eliminate skunk odors and other nasty smells. The spray can also be used on water-safe clothing and furniture.

If you live in the country, or in a suburban area where skunks are prevalent, you’d do well to have these kinds of anti-skunk sprays and conditioners on hand for emergencies.

Alternatives in Emergencies

If the initial 3 or 4 baths with regular canine shampoo doesn’t leave your pooch odor-free, there are home remedies that you can try. Please note, these home remedies may not be as effective as a special anti-skunk shampoo.

Tomato juice has long been used to clear up skunk odors. Take room temperature juice and a wet sponge and thoroughly coat your dog’s hair with the tomato juice. Allow the juice to dry, then bathe and rinse your dog normally. The tomato juice might stain the coat of lighter haired dogs, but that is a small price to pay to get rid of the odor.

Listerine mouthwash is also an alternative. Use it liberally as you would the tomato juice. If your dog has sensitive skin, please note that the acid content of the mouthwash is extremely high and may irritate your dog’s skin.

The US Department of Fish and Wildlife has this formula as an alternative solution to skunk spray:

  • 1 quart of fresh, 3 percent hydrogen peroxide solution)
  • ¼ cup of baking soda (bicarbonate of soda)
  • 1 teaspoon of a liquid soap that is known for its degreasing qualities

Mix the solution in a large, open container because a closed container can explode with the fizzing action between the baking soda and the hydrogen peroxide. Use the entire mixture while it is still bubbling. Wearing rubber gloves, apply the solution, work it into lather, and leave it on for 30 minutes before rinsing.

Categories
Food Itchy Skin & Allergies

How Food And Nutrients Positively Affect Your Dog’s Skin

by Cate Burnette, RVT

Just as in our human diets, the nutrients in your dog’s food can affect how her skin does its job – protecting and covering the muscles, bones, and internal organs in the canine body while providing a transport system for blood cells, oxygen, and water. A malnourished and dehydrated animal will show the effects of a lack of water and nutrients first in the skin by exhibiting dry and flaky skin cells, a decrease in skin pliability, and an inability of the skin to heal itself.

Re-introducing those particular nutrients – Vitamins A, C, E, and B3 – that nourish and promote skin health can be as simple as looking in your pantry or refrigerator and adding particular foods to your pet’s menu.

Using the list below, you can find safe, canine-friendly foods that your dog will love as a treat or special supplement, and that are easily added to her regular meal plan.

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Vitamin A is an essential vitamin for great skin health. It promotes new cell growth, boosts the immune system, and works to allow your dog’s cells to transcribe energy from one to the other – the prime component in healing.

Foods rich in Vitamin A include:

· Liver

· Sweet potatoes

· Carrots

· Dark, leafy greens, such as kale, spinach, collards, and turnip greens

· Butternut squash

· Dried parsley, basil, and oregano

· Cantaloupe

· Green peas

· Milk, both whole and non-fat

· Oatmeal

Vitamin C – ascorbic acid – works on your dog’s skin by developing and maintaining healthy blood vessels and scar tissue. A powerful anti-oxidant, this nutrient is known to combat the effects of aging and strengthen your pet’s immune system. A major component of cartilage, Vitamin C helps lubricate your pet’s joints and keep her skin soft and supple. Because vitamin C is one of the vitamins your pooch doesn’t manufacture in her own body, daily supplementation of foods rich in this nutrient are essential for her healthy skin.

Foods rich in Vitamin C include:

· Fresh thyme and parsley

· Dark, leafy greens, including kale, mustard greens, turnip greens, and watercress

· Broccoli, cauliflower, and brussels sprouts

· Kiwi fruit

· Oranges and tangerines

· Strawberries

· Cantaloupes

· Mangoes

Vitamin E is a group of 8 fat-soluble compounds – meaning it stays in your dog’s body – geared toward boosting your dog’s immune system and preventing the effects of aging. This nutrient functions at the cellular level by boosting the healing power of skin cells and promoting the destruction of cells that are already damaged. Vitamin E eases skin inflammation and facilitates the production of the collagen and elastin skin fibers that keep your pet’s skin soft and pliable.

Foods rich in Vitamin E include:

· Chopped almonds

· Shelled sunflower seeds

· Peanuts and organic peanut butter

· Cooked spinach

· Wheat germ

· Flaxseed, corn, and canola oil

· Broccoli

· Kiwi fruit

· Asparagus

· Butternut squash

Niacin, also known as Vitamin B3, is known to promote water retention in skin cells, effectively hydrating and moisturizing your dog’s skin. It also has been shown to help in the removal of dead skin cells that thicken and stiffen the upper layers of skin associated with such health conditions as dermatitis and hypothyroidism.

Foods rich in Niacin include:

· Wheat bran

· Fish, mainly anchovies, sardines, and tuna

· Liver

· Peanuts and organic peanut butter

· White-meat chicken

· Bacon

DOG for DOG is an all natural dog food and treat company with a mission to help dogs in need. You buy one we give one! 52,000 pounds were donated in 2013

Categories
Itchy Skin & Allergies

Natural Ingredients to Soothe a Dog’s Itchy Skin

by Cate Burnette

When your dog is constantly itchy and scratching, and your veterinarian prescribes antibiotics and steroids to help, you may want to look at natural ingredients to ease your pet’s suffering as a first line of defense.

Listed below are some super effective ingredients you should look for in products. Deciding what can best help your dog’s skin is a matter of research and, sometimes, trial and error.

Colloidal oatmeal is an FDA-approved all-natural ingredient used to help heal dry, flaky skin, heal bug bites, and stop the itching caused by allergies. Found mainly in canine shampoos and conditioners, oatmeal has been used in human medicine for generations for its moisturizing and anti-inflammatory properties.

Aloe vera extract brings immediate relief to flea and bug bites and helps relieve the itching of dry, flaky skin. It contains mineral, enzymes, and proteins that help soften the skin and coat of your dog. This organic product is used in human medicine for burn relief, both in minor sunburn pain, and in more serious, deeper skin burns.

Vervain, valerian, skullcap, and wild lettuce A combination of these organics reduces restlessness, treats anxiety, calms your dog’s nerves, and acts as a natural sedative and sleep aid during time of stress. The perfect tonic for a restless animal with dry, itchy skin, a drop of these all-natural ingredients on your dog’s food or tongue can quell her nerves and give the whole family a peaceful night’s sleep. You can buy it all bottled-up as well. Check out Sleepytime Tonic.

Citronella works on your pet’s skin to repel mosquitoes, flies, and gnats, while leaving her skin’s essential oils behind and not rendering flea and tick products useless. Often times citronella is overpowering, but Dirty & Hairy’s OUTDOOR range seem to have cracked the code on getting the benefits of citronella while minimizing the smell.

Lavender and eucalyptus essential oils act as natural remedies for many skin ailments, soothing irritations and inflammations, and protecting your pup against the allergens that can cause itchy skin. Eucalyptus oils also function as natural mosquito repellents. Check out the essential oil range from Cain & Able Collection.

Shea butter promoted the healing process of damaged skin, helps the cells retain moisture, and protects against the environmental damage of smog and chemicals. Additionally, shea butter is high in Vitamins E and A and rich in the essential fatty acids that keep your dog’s skin supple and healthy. You can find shea butter in products like Paw Rub.

Peppermint oil moisturizes your dog’s skin, and hydrates and detangles her fur. A hypoallergenic essential oil, peppermint leaves the coat soft and shiny and is safe for even the youngest puppy. Pepper oil also works as a natural repellent to most insects, particularly fleas and mosquitoes.

Wheat germ oil, leleshwa oil, and flaxseed oil This combination of essential oils work together to combat pesky biting insects, such as fleas and mosquitoes. Flaxseed acts against the inflammation of insect bites to relieve itching, while wheat germ oil contains the nutrients Vitamin E, zinc, some B vitamins, and other minerals that promote skin healing. You can find this powerhouse trio in Flea the Scene.

Tea tree oil is believed to have antiviral, antifungal, and antibacterial properties that function to defend your pet’s skin from infection and disease. This essential oil works actively against Staphylococcus bacteria, the main microorganism behind many destructive skin infections. Note: a little goes a long way to solving the problem.

Categories
bad breath

How to Cure a Dog’s Bad Breath

by Cate Burnette, RVT

Stinky dog breath is most often caused by an accumulation of bacteria and decomposing food particles in your pooch’s mouth. As he eats, tiny bits of whatever he consumes get trapped between his teeth and, if left in his mouth, cause a brown, tacky substance called plaque, or tartar.

 When the tartar hardens on the tooth, it becomes a solid, concrete-like substance called calculus. It’s the tartar and the calculus in your dog’s mouth that traps the bacteria and allows it to grow in that warm, moist environment causing periodontal disease. Not only does that bacteria smell bad, it can travel throughout your dog’s body, causing infection and possible heart and kidney disease.

 As a pet parent, you have several options to help cure that bad breath.

 Veterinary Teeth Cleaning

 During your dog’s annual exam, your veterinarian examines his mouth checking for bad teeth, inflamed gums, and any unusual tumors or growths. Typically, if your dog shows signs of periodontal disease, your vet will recommend that you allow for a prophylactic dental cleaning under general anesthesia.

 During this procedure, the tartar and calculus on your dog’s teeth is scraped completely away, and the roots under the gum line are probed for any open pockets of infection. Additionally, the vet removes any loose or broken teeth that may be causing pain and not allowing your pet to chew properly.

 Once the teeth are polished and your dog’s mouth is rinsed by an anti-bacterial wash, the bacteria causing the odor have no place to attach to the tooth, and you’ll notice a bright, clean smell coming from your pet’s mouth.

 To keep those teeth clean and your dog’s mouth smelling good, you’ll need to brush his teeth on a regular basis at home – at least 3 to 4 times a week.

 Home Brushing With Natural Products

 Because many human types of toothpaste contain xylitol, a sweetening ingredient that is harmful to a dog’s digestive system, home brushing requires that you purchase special canine toothpaste.  Many veterinarians recommend trying natural doggy toothpaste containing organic ingredients such as tea tree oil, with its fresh smell, anti-bacterial, and anti-fungal properties, and potassium phosphate that reduces tartar build-up.

 On the days you’re not brushing, you can run gentle, alcohol-free dental wipes over his teeth and gums to remove food particles and bacteria, and freshen his breath. Organic peppermint in the wipes works as an astringent, while pomegranate extract and sodium bicarbonate mechanically clean the teeth to reduce plaque and gum disease.

 Further all-natural treatment can include a daily dose of pro-biotic anti-plaque spray to reduce the harmful oral bacteria causing your dog’s bad breath and plaque. The pro-biotics in the spray kill off the bad disease-causing bacteria, while fruit concentrates high in antioxidants reduce inflammation and promote healthy gums. Free from any flourides, added detergents, or synthetic colors or flavors, a pro-biotic spray used on a regular basis can stop tartar build-up before it starts.

 Keeping your dog’s mouth and teeth shiny and clean, can help your furbaby enjoy a long, healthy life, AND let you enjoy his kisses with clean, fresh breath.

Categories
Ears

Dog Ear Infections Symptoms & Treatments

by Cate Burnette, RVT

Statistics show that ear infections are the number one reason pet parents take their dogs to the veterinarian. Golden retrievers, cocker spaniels, Labrador retrievers, schnauzers, Westies, wheaten terriers, and all the setters tend to have more ear diseases than other breeds, but all dogs can contract the infection at some point in their lives. Knowing what to look for, how to treat it, and how to prevent the next ear problem should be an integral part of every dog owner’s education.

How can I tell if my dog has an ear infection?

While some signs of an ear infection are fairly obvious to a knowledgeable pet parent, other signals are more obscure and can be misjudged as being symptomatic of other diseases. Listed below are some of the indications that your pooch may be suffering from this very common disease.

· Your dog is constantly scratching at his ears, rubbing them on the carpet or furniture, and shaking his head. Because the yeast, bacteria, or parasites infecting your dog’s ears cause intense pruritus – or itching – your pup may be constantly trying to find ways to stop the irritation.

· You notice the visible part of the ear is red and inflamed, and you can smell a distinctive, musty odor coming from it. The redness and inflammation is caused by your dog’s immune system trying to rid itself of the cause of the infection. Typically, a bad smell indicates yeast or pasty discharge in the ear canal.

· A visible brown, yellow, or bloody discharge – called exudate – seeping from your dog’s ears points toward a serious infection.

· Scabby, crusted skin and hair loss around your dog’s earflap and down his neck indicates excessive itching and scratching, often caused by bacteria, yeast or parasites.

· Signs of a long-term infection, or one centered in the middle and/or inner ear, can include a pronounced head tilt, walking in circles, and a loss of balance, called ataxia.

· Nystagmus, a condition where your dog’s eyes move rapidly back and forth, can be a signal to a serious ear infection and a precursor to ataxia.

· Sudden hearing loss can indicate a busted eardrum caused by inflammation, and/or an accumulation of exudate in the ear.

What can I do to help get rid of the infection?

The first thing to do to help get rid of the infection is to see your veterinarian. Your pooch needs a complete ear examination, which includes allowing the vet to take samples from the inside of the ear to inspect under a microscope. The veterinarian determines which type of antibiotic to prescribe depending on whether the infection is bacterial, fungal, or caused by parasites.

You’ll be prescribed an aural antibiotic to use at home for 7 to 10 days. To be most effective, make sure to continue applying the medicine for the entire course of the prescription. Failing to do so can allow the infection to reoccur.

Additionally, gently massage the ointment or liquid medicine into all parts of your pup’s ears, rubbing it throughout all the crevices of the ear canal and up into the underside of the ear flaps. Bacteria, yeast, and mites can travel to all the parts of the ear, and you’ll want to destroy all of the offending organisms to fully get rid of the infection.

How can I prevent another ear infection?

After the ear infection is totally gone, there are organic products available to help you prevent further disease.

If your pooch is particularly prone to ear infections, daily or semi-daily cleaning with an all-natural ear cleanser containing essential oils and a tiny amount of alcohol may work for you. The alcohol dries any moisture found in the ear canal – very important for dogs that like to swim – and ingredients such as aloe vera, tea tree oil, lavender oil, citronella oil, and eucalyptus keep the skin hydrated and smooth. The oils also work as natural anti-inflammatories, keeping the ears refreshed and smelling nice.

Products that contain colloidal silver and extra virgin olive oil work to suppress bacteria, and relieve pain and inflammation in the ear. These components, along with arnica, chaparral oils, organic comfrey, and witch hazel, can loosen the waxy build-up that attracts bacteria and yeast, while relieving the itching and irritation inherent in canine ear infections.